Issue 09 | Modena, Emilia Romagna
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Welcome back to the Italy Deep Dive and to a region we have not yet delved into, one with a fascinating and rich gastronomic history which is often considered the valley of Italian excellencies. The town that we’ll get to know (hopefully) better in this week’s Deep Dive is especially known to be the home of Aceto Balsamico, Ferrari and one quite well-known chef: Massimo Bottura.
Let’s Dive
Aceto Balsamico is the spectacular product through which we’ll be discovering the past (and present) of Modena, a picturesque town in Emilia Romagna, in the north of Italy. The Italian oro nero - black gold - is obtained by grape must (the freshly crushed grape juice that contains skins and seeds) which is partially fermented, cooked or concentrated. According to the specifications, it can be exclusively produced with Lambrusco grapes or Sangiovese, Trebbiano or a selection of other native grapes to the region of Emilia. After a series of important passages and the transformation into vinegar, the ageing phase begins—which requires immense amounts of patience. The minimum amount of time the vinegar can age, in order to be called Aceto Balsamico di Modena, is 60 days. Whereas this short ageing time might be used by large industrial firms, artisanal producers prefer to age their aceto for much longer - around 12 years - to strive for the highest quality possible.
Although it is an ancient product, it is not simple to create, party for the very precise laws the Consorzio di Tutela put in place and partly because of the lengthy time needed to age Aceto Balsamico before it is ready to be sold. Its origins date back to ancient Rome, when cooked grape must - known as sapum - was used both as a medicine and in cooking. Aceto Balsamico production is historically tied to the towns of Modena and Reggio Emilia as the unique climates create the perfect conditions for the entire production process, from growing the grapes all the way to ageing.
I believe that Aceto Balsamico di Modena’s potential in cuisine has yet to be uncovered fully, as most people tend to use it as a condiment for salad. Alongside adding a delightful flavour: rich, acidic and sweet, Aceto Balsamico is a wonderful ingredient to use in order to balance out the single components of a dish. Aged versions are great as a final touch to savoury dishes, desserts or cocktails, whereas younger Aceto Balsamico works best to cook with.
Tasting tip: if you’re curious to taste Aceto Balsamico di Modena in a unique dish, head over to Franceschetta58 - part of Massimo Bottura’s group of restaurants, focused on casual dining - and try the Emilia Burger. A cotechino, beef filet and aged Parmigiano patty is paired with salsa verde, Aceto Balsamico di Modena mayo and two soft buns. It is so incredible that it brought me to consider moving to Modena just so that I could eat it every week.