Issue 11 | Alba, Piemonte
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This issue’s traditional product doesn’t like to hide. Its potent, beautiful and unique aroma fills any room it is sliced in, and its flavour is truly unambiguous. I’m obviously talking about white truffle, more specifically the one from Alba and its surrounding woodlands.
Let’s Dive
Truffles have been part of many people’s diets for centuries, as the Greek philosopher Plutarco proves when narrating that the unique product is created from a combination of water, heat and lightning. Nowadays we know that there is no lightning involved in the production of white truffles, although their existence is still quite a mystery and no one has been able to successfully farm il tartufo bianco di Alba.
The now famous truffle hunt was historically executed with a breed of small pigs who were gifted with excellent scent, before moving onto dogs during the 1800s. Truffles are created in extremely unique conditions and terroir, when all the elements - humidity, type of soil, the right tree roots and temperature - are perfectly balanced. They live in symbiosis with trees and their roots, especially Lindens and Hazelnuts. Once a truffle reaches its peak ripeness, it releases bursts of scent which filter through the soil to reach the surface, where they are sniffed and recognized by trained dogs.
Until recently, Alba’s white truffle was not as prestigious, nor so hard to find, and was often consumed to celebrate the end of a successful harvest. Bagna caoda was the protagonist of all harvest gatherings, and it was common to crack an egg into the last parts of the sauce - whose residual heat would cook the egg - and then shave a white truffle or two over it all.
White truffles (and truffles in general) pair wonderfully with all foods that are fat and especially warm. The food’s warmth - whether that be an egg, tajarin al burro or risotto - when in contact with a thin shave of truffle, releases and amplifies all its aromas.
Instead of the usual Tasting Tip, this week I would like to share a Fun Fact with you, especially those of you who love truffle based products. Truffle based products - especially truffle oil - very rarely is made with actual truffles. MIC DROP. The main ingredient (besides oil) is a chemical created in a lab to mimic the aromas of truffle. Hopefully I just saved you from spending €20 on another bottle of truffle oil (you’re welcome).