Our Veneto List
What to taste and where to taste it; game changers in the world of sustainability, craft and cooking.
January has (finally) come to an end, so to wrap up a whole month of Cabinet of Curiosities issues dedicated to Veneto, the editorial team has gathered to share a few of the most fascinating food projects the region is home to, paired with a few precious tips on where to eat the best cicchetti in Venice.
The wonderful world of cicchetti
To understand the origin of cicchetti - Venice's small bites - one must first know the story of i bacari, compact eateries that serve wine and food in Venice.
Before being known as cool eateries, bacari were wine producers that during the Middle Ages would travel to Venice to sell their wine in large casks. They would position themselves in Piazza San Marco or at the Rialto Market under the shade — which is why a glass of wine in Venice is known as an ombra.
Over time, the bacari began storing their wine in small rooms around the city, gradually transforming them into spaces where one could also drink a glass or two. To support all the drinking, small morsels made with local products placed over bread began being sold: cicchetti.
Originating from ciccus, a Latin term used to describe a small quantity, cicchetti nowadays are consumed at every hour of the day, with any kind of topping -- and not necessarily paired with wine!
Here are our five favorite cicchetti in Venice, and where to find them.
Capovilla, the spirits game changers
By Sophie Renhuldt: Everyday Made in Italy PR, weekend winemaker. Yapper.
Some of the world’s best spirits can be found at Capovilla’s mystical distillery near Bassano del Grappa (named after the mountain, Monte Grappa, not the drink), where artisanal grappas, Bierbrand, and fruit distillates have been produced since the 1980s. At the time, the Venetian grappa-making tradition was still largely a by-product of the winemaking industry—a cheap (and profitable) way to make use of pomace (grape skins, seeds, pulp, and stems), quickly and unlovingly optimised for mass production.
Inspired by small-scale producers in Austria and Germany, former winemaker and race-car mechanic Vittorio Gianni Capovilla caused quite a stir with his distinctly non-industrial approach, adopting a slow, low-temperature double distillation technique, sourcing top-quality pomace from legendary wineries, and experimenting with endangered and heirloom fruit varieties. His fervent commitment to the latter led him to Italy’s most unlikely cultivars, from hunting for Saturnina peaches on Mount Etna to foraging wild elderberries, sorb apples, and medlar in his native Veneto. The resulting spirits are brimming in flavour.
Today, Capovilla has garnered a cult following in the spirits world and is widely considered the father of artisanal distillati in Italy, reaching well beyond regional borders. I was first introduced to Capovilla’s legacy not in Veneto, but in a room full of glimmering copper stills at Gianni Viberti’s micro-distillery in Piedmont’s Cerequio, aptly named Spirito Agricolo. Gianni trained under Capovilla and now produces distillati from heirloom apples, pears, and Barolo pomace, all biodynamically farmed on their La Morra estate.
The Tidal Garden - Culinary Solutions for Veneto’s Salinized Land
By Flora Igoe: Curious about Italy’s culinary traditions and the stories they tell, exploring the connections between its food, culture and history
The Tidal Garden and Orizzonte Sale are two noteworthy initiatives in Venice’s Lagoon, impressively combining science, culture and gastronomy to rethink sustainable food systems. Established in 2020, The Tidal Garden focuses on the cultivation of halophytes - salt-tolerant plants - on salinized cropland. Through its local network of farmers and food, it creates innovative culinary products and recipes showcasing the unique potential of these crops.
Building on this work, Orizzonte Sale, founded in 2023, addresses broader issues of food security and resilience in tidal areas, both within Venice’s Lagoon and beyond. The NGO mobilizes a community of artists, gastronomy professionals, academics, and institutions, local and international, to explore and implement strategies for adapting to the shifting landscapes of coastal ecosystems. Keep an eye on The Tidal Garden’s webpage for upcoming events.
Venissa - a perfectly tasty escape from Venice
by Laís Zimmermann: Cheese nerd and food history lover
A short boat ride from Piazza San Marco takes you to Mazzorbo, a small island near Burano. Here, you’ll be greeted by an unusual sight: a hectare of vines surrounded by medieval walls.
Venissa is a sustainable vineyard revitalization and hospitality project, and what better way to start your visit with a guided tour of the estate followed by a wine tasting, one of the few produced in Venice’s lagoon!
In 2002, Venissa’s enologists found the only 88 vines of Dorona di Venezia that had survived the tragic acqua alta in 1966, replanting them on the island. This indigenous grape variety has adapted to the high salinity within the soil and the constant threat of flooding, resulting in an incredible, award-winning wine.
The restaurant, run by Chefs Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto, proposes an “environmental cuisine”: one that describes the surrounding environment and, at the same time, reflects on the footprint it leaves on the land.
They currently hold a Michelin star and a Green Michelin star, awarded for their commitment to sustainability, centered around their use of blue crab, an invasive species that threatens to ruin Venice’s marine ecosystem. The menu additionally features herbs and vegetables grown on the island and fish from the lagoon.
Spend the night and, after breakfast, take part in one of their unique experiences, such as visiting the last artisan to hammer gold by hand and fishing for moeche, soft-shell crabs that are the lagoon’s delicacy.
Before bidding Mazzorbo farewell, dine at their contemporary osteria, sharing a selection of cicchetti, the crudo of the day and the unique twist on the classic Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino, which they make with blue crab and wild garlic that grows amongst the vines.
Laguna~B, our favorite Venetian glassmakers
Venice has been celebrated for being the capital of glass production since antiquity. Murano was founded by Ancient Romans as they escaped the Empire during its fall, who brought with them their expert know-how on glass production for domestic and decorative uses.
Laguna~B was founded in 1994 by Marie Brandolini and her desire to merge her passion for design and creativity into Murano glass. The atelier has stood out for its unique approach, fresh interpretations of historic glasses and quality from the get-go. I’ve had the fortune of visiting their furnace and workshop multiple times, witnessing the creative genius that is Marcantonio, Marie’s son. Read more about Laguna~B and the incredible work they do for Venice’s heritage here.
Living in the Veneto for 9+ years was amazing.