The Cabinet of Curiosities | Issue 04
Of hidden coves & their pasta al pesto; Le Marche's tiny tortellini and a reflection on the eternal debate: French or Italian food?
Welcome back to The Cabinet of Curiosities my fellow food lovers! To refresh your memory, cabinets of curiosities, or wunderkammers, were small collections of extraordinary objects created during the Renaissance. This is our very own Cabinet of Curiosities, dedicated to all the wonders and peculiarities of Italian food culture.
In this monthly newsletter, you can expect to find 3 pieces by alternating La Panza Piena contributors. Voices and people that you’ll meet gradually, through their narrations, stories on forgotten recipes, hidden gems, deep-dives into unique products and distinctive global perspectives on Italian food culture.
Thank you for all your immensely positive & constructive feedback on the first issues of The Cabinet of Curiosities! I can’t wait for you to meet the three contributors in this issue—you’ve almost met them all. We have so many great new pieces in the works, it’s truly going to be an exciting ride. This month’s Cabinet of Curiosities begins with a beautiful piece by Marta Doria on a hidden agririfugio in San Fruttuoso (one of the most beautiful places in Italy which is a must visit) and continues with a very interesting and thought-provoking article on the never-ending debate of French vs. Italian food by Perrine Vilain. Last but not least, Sole Castelbarco shares one of her favorite hidden gems in Le Marche, a region which has great landscapes - and food - yet to be discovered by most travellers.
- Carlotta Panza, founder of La Panza Piena
An idyllic hideaway in San Fruttuoso
By Marta Doria: Urban & Territorial Designer, passionate about food and the people behind it.
If you’re not already familiar with San Fruttuoso, the small cove is one of the most beautiful places in Liguria— and the perfect destination for a two-day trip surrounded by glistening skies and seas.
There are only two ways to reach this little corner of paradise: by foot or by boat. Starting from Portofino, a path to reach the monastery passes through villas on the sea, wooded forests and breathtaking views over the coast. The last part of the path is the toughest, which coincides exactly with the moment in which you start dreaming of a piece - or maybe two - of fugassa. Once at the top, the hidden landscape slowly begins to unfold: the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, the tower dedicated to Andrea Doria and the tiny stone village where you’ll be able to source the fugassa you were dreaming of.
Since the last ferry back to Camogli or Portofino is at 6 pm, the time to spend in San Fruttuoso is not as much as one may like. Fortunately, there are a few rifugi hidden in the mountain where you can rest for the night and enjoy a filling dinner after all the hiking.
One of the rifugi is Agririfugio Molini, run by an association that takes expert care of the property. The agririfugio constitutes of small wooden houses with simple bedrooms and an extensive natural terrace where lunch, dinner and breakfast are served.
The menu is fixed and the cuisine is simple and respectful of the Ligurian tradition. Every dish and course, from the antipasti to the first and second courses are cooked on the spot and accompanied by a fresh local wine. After a long day of hiking, swimming and eating fugassa, dinner was served: salumi, formaggi, torta salata, pasta al pesto and baccalà, all accompanied by homemade bread. In true mountain style, dinner ended with a glass - or two - of their home made liquors.
The following morning, before setting off by foot and before going back to normal life, breakfast is served on the terrace with fresh fruit compotes, making the departure sweeter.
Why are people always comparing Italian and French cuisine?
By Perrine Vilain: cheese geek and wine lover, passionate about food culture.
When talking about great raw materials, traditional recipes, restaurants and gastronomic history – two countries usually distinguish themself: Italy and France. The conversation is then usually followed by one of the most complicated questions one could ever ask a lover of good food and wine: which cuisine do you prefer? Do you prefer pizza or jambon-beurre sandwiches? Pasta al ragù or quiche lorraine? Tiramisù or Tarte Tatin? Barolo or Bourgogne?
My answer to the popular question will always be the same: I love both. And I love the fact that they are so different, but also complement each other perfectly; they both have a strong identity, history, and are not very flexible – we all remember the scandal which erupted in Italy a few years ago with regards to the French putting crème fraiche in their carbonara, or the fact that croissants in Italy are usually filled with sweet creams, or even worse: prosciutto e formaggio.
There is good news however. It seems that people are moving forward, starting to accept a world in which French and Italian cuisine can not only coexist but blend together.
At the end of the day, the mutual influence of the two cuisines has been going on for hundreds of years, in part thanks to Caterina de Medici. This influence has resulted in two distinct types of cuisine and food cultures, united by one mantra: passion. Recipes are unique, ingredients are different - yet at times very similar - but the way of thinking and the emotional attachment will always remain the same.
Hunting for the tiniest handmade truffle cappelletti in Le Marche
By Sole Castelbarco Albani: addicted to pasta alle zucchine & small taverns, art geek during the week.
Nested in the heart of the Furlo pass, a natural paradise in Le Marche, lies a hidden treasure. Antico Furlo is an exceptional inn where one can discover the intense and aromatic flavour of the black Acqualagna truffle, as well as many other regional excellencies. Chef Alberto Melagrana knows just how to enhance the uniqueness of the truffle by creating simple yet refined dishes. Antico Furlo is an inn in the true sense of the word, as it has a few rooms where guests can sleep and spend the day visiting the impressive gorge through which the aquamarine Candigliano river runs through.
Dining in the inn was a mind blowing discovery: a real gem, the kind you want to visit again and again... I must admit that my family and I returned just 5 days after our first meal. Once you have the opportunity to taste their rigorously hand-made cappelletti served with a silky parmesan cream and fine truffle flakes, life won’t be the same. The stuffed pasta is so tiny it resembles a dish of pearls, leaving me in awe of how much craftsmanship is even possible.
The silky cappelletti dish perfectly sums up Antico Furlo’s essence. The small, family-run inn, immersed in one of Italy’s most beautiful hidden pockets shines bright thanks to its attention to detail, respect for local products and traditional regional recipes.